What this is all about...


The idea to drive, photograph and document the gravel mountain passes of the coastal region of South Africa occurred to me while driving the Prince Alfred pass early in 2012. A mountain pass is much more than a cumbersome stretch of road linking the areas on either side of a mountain. There is a "this side", which invariably differs from the "other side", as well as an "inside". Each side containing its own unique collection of marvels. Old classic farm houses, derelict but stylish bridges, missionary churches, rock formations, old toll houses from yester year giving shelter to a squatter ghost or two, succulents hiding in rocky crevices, black eagles scouting for hyraxes and much more. Hopefully there is also a charming campsite somewhere on the "other side" to erect an antenna in time for the 18h00 schedule to share the day's discoveries with the OM and YL's within reach.


The expedition started on 12 September 2012, when we left Durbanville for the Richtersveld. It is not always possible to say where we will be on what day. That is why this an expedition and not a tour.


Die idee om die bergpasse van die kusstreke van Suid-Afrika te verken, te fotografeer en te dokumenteer het ontstaan toe ek vroeg in 2012 oor die Prince Alfredpas gery het. 'n Bergpas is veel meer as 'n lastige stukkie pad wat die areas weerskante van 'n berg met mekaar verbind. Daar is 'n "hierdie kant", wat sonder uitsondering baie anders is as die "ander kant", en natuurlik ook 'n "binnekant". Elke kant bring sy kant met 'n unieke versameling interessanthede. Ou klassieke plaashuise, verlate maar stylvolle brue, sendingkerke, rotsformasies, tolhuise van eergister wat die spook of twee wat daar kom plak het teen die elemente beskerm, vetplante in rotsskeure, witkruisarende op soek na dassies, en veel meer. Hopelik ook 'n oulike kampterrein aan die "ander kant" waar ek 'n antenna kan opslaan, betyds vir die 18h00 skedule om die dag se ondekkings te deel met die OM'e en YL's binne bereik.


Die ekspedisie het op 12 September 2012 bgin toe ons Durbanville verlaat het oppad na die Richtersveld. Ons moet maar steeds sien waar ons wanneer sal wees. Dit is waarom dit 'n ekspedisie is en nie 'n toer nie.

Sunday, 30 September 2012

Ons het gistermiddag in Port Owen aangekom om bietjie te konsolideer voor die volgende fase. 'n Paar reparasies en verbeterings aan toerusting was nodig. More vier ons die XYL se verjaardag, Dinsdag Durbanville toe en Woensdag vat ek weer die pad met Fase 1 (b).
Vandag was'n baie mooi lentedag aan die Weskus. Anglevis gebak.

Yesterday afternoon we arrived at Port Owen for a few days of consolidation and tuning of equipment. Tomorrow we celebrate the XYL's birthday. Tuesday to Durbanville and on Wednesday I will hit the road again with Phase 1 (b).
An excellent spring day at the West Coast today. We did Angle fish in the pan.

Nog fotos:

Road from Kleinsee to Springbok - Buffelsrivier on the right

No name pass between Spoegrivier and N7

25 kilometer long Langkloof pass west of Garies

Passengers are useful - especially where there is one gate per kilometer

Helskloof pass in Richtersveld


Friday, 28 September 2012

Yesterday we drove two magnificent and well known Namaqualand passes. Wildeperdehoek and Klipmesselpad. That is after a wet night in Springbok. We camped at Skilpad jusrt next to the National Park for another stormy and wet night. Our company on the stoep of the ablutions (where we cooked) was a German teacher from Pretoria who was travelling on her own.
Today we drove five lovely and virtually unknown passes. Grootrivier, Killian, Unknown, Langkloof and Studer.  I will post pictures later.

Ek het nie nou krag om te vertaal nie. Afrikaans volg later.



Suid van Vioolsdrift



Tuesday, 25 September 2012

A few more photos. We came to Springbok via Kleinzee and the Spektakel Pass.

Quiver tree

15 kilometer "no name"pass west of Eksteensfontein

Klipstapels in Klein Helskloofpas

Stunning Halfmens in the koppies at Umdaus

Windmill taking a gap year

Monday, 24 September 2012

Arrived in Port Nolloth this morning and staying in the Country Club & Lodge. Not cheap-cheap but after 7 free bush camps, its ok.  Will probably shower 3 times before we leave tomorrow.
After Sendelingsdrift we drove the Helskloof Pass in the Park en route to Richtersberg. Spent 3 nights there with Vreulinks and then another bush camp south of Vioolsdrift. On our way to Vioolsdrift first the Helskloof Pass and  the pass west of Eksteensfontein again, before the Klein Helskloof Pass with its eerie rock 'statuettes'. Unfortunately the petroglyphs next to the road in the pass have been vandalised almost out of existence.
The three nights at Umdaus (actually Xhumdaus) with the Venters have also been very special. The diversity in succulent species is incredible. Although I had seen Halfmense (Pachypodium namaquanum) a few times before, at Umdaus there are more of them to be seen in a morning than 99.9999% of the population would see in a 100 life times.

As far as the radio side is concerned, 40m seems to work ok up to about 19h00. I find the Klaus Mast with vertical the easiest to put up. At Umdaus the wind picked up every afternoon late and then I had to switch to whip plus long wire (inverted L) which also worked perfect. So far I am getting consistent 59 signal reports.

The southern Richtersveld around Umdaus and Kosies is magnificent. A second expedition is already taking shape in my head (half-joking). It seems as if the XYL is still enjoying the trip. Tomorrow we will tackle the Spektakel Pass and aim for Springbok.  Will write about the menu tomorrow or so. Below are some pics.

Ons het vanoggend in Port Nolloth aangekom en slaap in die Country Club & Lodge. Nie cheap-cheap nie maar na 7 gratis boskampe is dit seker ok. Ons sal die stort deeglik gebruik voor ons vertrek.
Na Sendelingsdrift het ons via die Helskloofpas na Richtersberg gery en daar 3 ontspanne dae met Vreulinks spandeer.   Daarna 'n boskamp suid van Vioolsdrift.  Oppad na Vioolsdrift is ons weer oor die Helskoofpas, die lang pas wes van Eksteensfontein en die Klein Helskloofpas met sy klipstapels. Die rotsgravures langs die pad in die pas is ongelukkig erg gevandaliseer.
Die drie nagte byUmdaus (eintlik Xhumdaus) saam met die Venters was spesiaal. Daar is 'n ongelooflike verskeidenheid sukkulente. Ek het tevore al heelwat Halfmense (Pachypodium namaquanum) gesien maar by Umdaus sien mens in een oggend meer van hulle as wat 99.9999% van die bevolking in 100 leeftye sal sien.
Aan die radiokant gaan dit goed. 40m is ok tot omtrent19h00. Die Klaus Mas met 'n vertikale draad is die maklikste om op te rig. By Umdaus word die wind laatmiddag sterk en dan het ek eerder die whip met 'n langdraad gebruik (omgekeerde L). Dit alles werk goed en ek kry konstante 59 seinverslae.
Die suidelike Richtersveld naby Umdaus en Kosies is 'n belewenis. 'n Volgende ekspedisie begin al lyf kry in my kop. Dit lyk of die XYL dit ook nog geniet. More ry ons die Spektakelpas en mik vir Springbok. Ek skryf later oor ons menus. Hieronder 'n paar fotos.






Monday, 17 September 2012

Now Monday morning (I think), and I am siting on my bum on the slipway of the ferry at Sendelingsdrift. Slept 3 nights in the Kookriver. One hot day, one cool day and today started with a thick fog. It is called the Malmokkie. Now clearing. Saturday was somewhat eventful as our partners for a few days did not turn up at the RV. No cell phone signal. Eventually went looking for them and when I could raise them on VHF radio we learned that they had driven over the concrete post of a cattle grid, had to turn back to Port Nolloth for emergency repairs to the undercarriage of the Prado. I hate to admit it but Toyota quality spared them more damage. The message got to Ingrid who managed to get hold of Louis (?) and when I went on the air just after 19h00, ZS1BOB could also fill me in. Fortunately by then we had found our friends. Dankie Ingrid en die ander wat probeer het.
Then had a good and clear QSO with ZS1BOB Cape), ZS6BNE (Lichtenburg) and ZS1QO (Cape).
Now the three hour trip to Roichersberg for three nights.
Sover dit bergpasse betref, het ons twee gery. Een mooi cute een (sonder naam?) 20km suid van Eksteensfontein, en 'n 15km pas noord van Eksteensfontein.
Gister die Groenkloof Canyon net langs die Nasional Park gery en gsiterand 'n baie groot uil gesien. Ek vermoed 'n Kaapse ooruil (Cape Eagle Owl).
By the way, the Klaus Mast with vertical is performing easily as well as an inverted V.

Gruss bis spa"ter.

Douw en Nelleke

Friday, 14 September 2012

Na vandag verdwyn die Vodacomseine vir 'n week of wat.  Ons het op Springbok gearriveer met 'n nuwe smile. Tot dusver nog net teerpadpasse. Kon gisteraand 'n toets QSO doen op 40m met 'n 9.5m vertikale langdraad in Klaus Mast. ZS1BOB in die Kaap, ZS1SG - Sarel in George, en ZS2LEN - Len in Oos Londen.
Vanaand slaap ons anderkant Eksteensfontein en RV moremiddag met Vreulinks by Kookrivier.

Today we are leaving the Vodacom signals behind for a week or so. Late yesterday we arrived in Sprinbok with a new smile. Only tarmac passes so far. Had a test QSO last night on 40m with a 9.5m vertical longwire. ZS1BOB - Bob in the Cape, ZS1SG - Sarel in George and ZS2LEN - Len in East London.
Tonight we will camp near Eksteensfontein en tomorow afternoon we RV with the Vreulinks at the Kook River.

Wednesday, 12 September 2012

The good news is that the expedition call sign ZS100MPX has been approved. The bad news is that a four unit dental bridge in my mouth broke just before Nuwerus while chewing dried mango strips. After some phone calls we turned around and drove to Vredendal where a very friendly dentist helped me. "Helped" means that tomorrow morning 06h00 we drive to Vredenburg with a cast for a prosthesis (spelling?) where a friendly technician has agreed to produce the prosthesis in time for us to back in Vredendal by about 14h30 so that the dentist can fit it and hopefully we will camp in Springbok tomorrow night with new teeth.  I suspect the wallet will be a bit lighter by then. And sadly no QSO tomorrow night as we will arrive too late.
Let us aim for Saturday 18h30, 40m.

Die goeie nuus is dat die ekspedisieroepsein ZS100MPX goedgekeur is. Die slegte nuus is dat 'n viertandbrug in my mond gebreek het net voor Nuwerus. Na 'n klompie telefoonoproepe het ons omgedraai en Vredendal toe gery waar 'n baie vriendelike tandarts my gehelp het. Dit beteken dat ons moreoggend 06h00 Vredenburg toe ry met 'n "cast" vir 'n prostese. 'n Vriendelike tegnikus het ingewillig om die prostese betyds te maak sodat ons om ongeveer 14h30 terug kan wees in Vredendal sodat die tandarts dit kan maak pas. Hopelik kamp ons moreaand in Springbok met nuwe tande en ek vermoed 'n ligter beursie.  Ongelukkig gaan ons te laat aankom vir 'n QSO op 40 meter. Kom ons mik vir Saterdag 18h30, 40m.