Final post of phase 1 (western part of the country):

• The first phase lasted more or less one month. We left Durbanville on 12 September and I returned on 13 October. And I am grateful to say that I have not had any serious mishap. The dental problem on day one was fixed so quickly and professionally that it is now just a distant memory.
• A few stats:
• I travelled 4800 kilometers, crossing the N7 a number of times, some of it with the XYL, the rest on my own.
• There were forty two mountain passes "in the way". Five of them would probably not qualify as conventional mountain passes. Rather rough routes through and over mountains. Four of them did not have names. Therefore I refer to them as PSN1, PSN2, etc. (Pas Sonder Naam). Although the expedition definition said "gravel mountain passes", I counted Spektakelpas and Pakhuispas too. Deep in their hearts they still want to be gravel passes.
• Twenty of the passes were new to me. And I am sure there twenty more along the way that we missed.
• I slept at eleven different camp sites. Three of them were bush camps. At six of the camp sites the XYL was with me. At the others I was on my own.
• During the month we had a hard roof over our heads for seven nights. During the whole period the weather was cool but decent. We had rain for two nights only (while in the tent of course).
• Between the two us we took about 1300 photos. Big job to convert them into something useful.
• We had friends with us for a few days on two occasions. Both of them in the Richtersveld.
• Amount of dust gathered: about twice the body weight of the Land Rover.
• During the month I had thirty five radio contacts on 40 meters with fourteen different hams. Most of the time I used a 10m vertical antenna inside a telescopic fibre glass mast (Klaus Mast). Easy and quick to erect. The longest contacts were with ZS6BNE (Kookrivier to Lichtenburg), 947 kilometer and ZS2LEN (Springbok to East London), 1020km. There were eleven contacts with ZS1TR in Bredasdorp/Agulhas and five with ZS1QO in the Cape peninsular. My Yaesu 857D seemed to have a problem with its audio. I received excellent signal reports consistently, but in a number of cases I could not return the compliment.
• Mountain passes are so different that it would be difficult to rank them. But the ones with the Big Views stand out.
• Helskloofpas - Richtersveld
• Spektakelpas - west of Springbok
• Wildeperdehoek/Klipmesselpad - south west of Springbok
• Gifbergpas - south of Van Rhynsdorp
• Hoek-se-Berg - east of Clanwilliam
• Gannagapas - Tanqua Karoo to Roggeveld
• Rammelkoppas - Sutherland to Merweville
• Oubergpas - Sutherland to Tanqua Karoo
• There were also the unexpected or unknown passes that made our day.
• Skurfhoogtepas - near Spoegrivier
• Syferhoogtepas - between Spoegrivier and the N7
• Langkloofpas - east of Garies
• Studerpas - east of Garies
• Equipment - not too much to comment on. However, I become more and more convinced that 80% of a trip's planning should be spent on how to reduce the amount of baggage/equipment. The stuff that really added value was the 60 watt solar panel and the home made LED floodlight that runs off the main battery, and of course the Klaus Mast. The home made one man roof top tent was not a big success. The 5 liter ice cream boxes inside the drawer system keep things in their place.
• Impressions.
• A very safe expedition provided you stay away from the N7.  We have some really suicidal drivers in this country.
• The western part of the country is still frontier country. I hope I am not going to be disappointed by the eastern Cape.
• I have discovered enough new, exciting and remote routes within a day of the Cape to keep me busy for a long time.
• The main surprise? I would never have guessed that I would have to jump start a road grader along the way.  They were a day's walk away from help, without any means of communication.
• The best meal: Venison with mieliepap cooked in a 1/4 size driebeenpot on the fire. Second best meal:  Venison with a large potato cooked in a 1/4 size driebeenpot on the fire. 
•  Now for some home maintenance and some sailing before the Land Rover's head turns east in January.

Thanks for the all interest. A few final photos (before January 2013).

Syferhoogtepas

Langkloofpas

Gifbergpas

Ganaggapas

Rammelkoppas

Studerpas

Botterkloofpas

Killianspas

Donderdagoggend, 11 Oktober, het die Landrover koers gekry in die rigting van die Ceres Karoo en Tanqua Karoo via die Oubergpas. Dinsdag en Woensdagaand was daar heeltemal te veel atmosferiese steurings om goeie radiokontak te kon maak. 'n Paar kilometer voor die Oubergpas was daar 'n skaaptrop oppad van die "onderplaas" terug na die "boplaas" soos wat baie boere elke jaar doen. 'n Bejaarde vrou in 'n bakkie was in beheer van die trek. Toevallig het ons haar man in Oktober 2007 op min of meer dieselfde plek met sy skape aangetref. Hy is twee jaar gelede in die skaapkraal aan 'n hartaanval dood en nou trek sy en 'n paar werkers elke jaar vyf dae lank af en 'n paar maande later weer vyf dae lank op, oor die Oubergpas. Sy het gesê dat dit nie meer lekker is nie want op die pad is daar 'n paar dekades se herineringe saam met haar man.
Oubergpas is een van die grotes en sal defnitief my Top Tien lys haal. Baie skerp kronkels oor en langs die rûens oppad ondertoe.  Daarna deur die Tanqua Karoo na die Ceres Karoo, en op en weer af met Katbakkies se pas voor die lang kloof oppad na die Grootrivierpas. Hierdie pas is steil en as dit nat is sal dit 'n horror wees. Die pad van Matjiesrivier na Sanddrif is BAIE sinkplaat en nie 'n plesier om te ry nie. Sanddrif se kampterrein lyk bietjie anders as toe ons in 1977 daar gekamp het. Nou is dit 'n groot goed ontwikkelde kampterrein met 'n sementbrug oor die rivier waar my Alfa Romeo toentertyd  in die middel van die drif in die donker met 'n nat vonkverdeler gaan staan het. 
Saterdagoggend het ek die pad oor die Uitkykpas en Nieuwoudtpas Durbanville toe geneem. Die Uitkykpas doen sy naam gestand maar die Nieuwoudtpas is niks besonders nie.
Die volgende fase begin vroeg 2013. More maak ek 'n finale inskrywing op hierdie blog oor my algemene indrukke van die westelike deel. 'n Paar fotos hieronder.

Thursday morning, 11 October, the Landover pointed its nose in the direction of the Ceres Karoo and Tanqua Karoo via the Oubergpas. On Tuesday and Wednesday nights the atmospheric interference made radio contact very difficult from Sutherland. A few kilometers before the Oubergpas I met a flock of sheep on their way from "the farm below" to the farm "on top" as is happening every year. An elderly lady in a bakkie was in charge of the process. Incidentally we had met her husband in 2007 at roughly the same spot with his sheep. Two years ago he died off a heart attack in the sheep kraal. Now, she and a few workers handle the trekking. First down the pass, for five days, and a few months later again up the pass, for five days. She said that it was no longer fun as the route contained too many memories, stretching over decades of trekking with her husband.
Oubergpas is one of the greats and will make my Top Ten.  Lots of sharp bends over the ridges on the way down. And the view: again magnificent.  Thereafter crossing the Tanqua Karoo and the Ceres Karoo, up and down Katbakkies before taking the long kloof en route to the Grootrivierpas. This is a steep pass with the potential to be a horror when it is wet. The road from Matjiesrivier to Sanddrif was heavily corrugated and no pleasure to drive. Now the camp site at Sanddrif is very different from how we experienced it in 1977. It is well developed with a cement bridge over the river where my Alfa Romeo got stuck at the crossing because of a soaked distributor.
Saturday morning I took the road over Uitkykpas and Nieuwoudtpas to Durbanville. Uitkykpas provides a good view but Nieuwoudtpas is nothing special.
I hope to start the next phase early next year. Tomorrow I will make a final post giving my impressions of the western part of the country. Below are a few photos.

Mev Esterhuizen se skaaptrek

Oubergpas met die Tanqua Karoo daar ver

Grootrivierpas in die Sederberge

Die brug by Sanddrif

Bo van die Uitkypas. Die ou pas kan regs onder gesien word

First thing this morning I visited SALT and was showed around by the resident engineer Vic Moore (ZS3VIC). Last night I enjoyed the hospitality of the local radio club. 13 members for a town the size of Sutherland is not bad. All of them work at SALT.  Thereafter I drove the the scenic route to Merweville and back. First down the Rooibergpas and then up again. On the way I had to help start a road grader. Its battery was flat. Before we could attach the jumpers I first had to tow the 5 ton sleeper trailer away. I learned that a Catterpillar engine needs very little battery power to start.
Merweville still untouched by so-called development. Tomorrow to he Cedarberg.

Vanoggend is ek eerste na SALT waar die ingenieur Vic Moore (ZS3VIC) my rondgeneem het. Gisteraand het ek die gasvryheid geniet van die plaaslike radioklub. 13 lede is glad nie sleg vir 'n dorp soos Sutherland nie. Hulle werk almal by SALT. Daarna het ek die mooi roete na Merweville en terug gery. Eers die steil Roooibergpas af en later weer op. Oppad moes ek help om 'n padskraper met 'n pap battery aan die gang te kry.  Voor ons die jumpers kon koppel moes ek eers die 5 ton "slaapkwartiere" wegsleep. Dit blyk dat 'n Caterpillarenjin baie min baterykrag nodig het om te vat.
Merweville gelukkig nog onaangeraak deur sogenaamde ontwikkeling.  More na die Sederberge.

Nog het einde niet

Time to catch up with my admin. Sofar no hickups and every thing is roughly going according to my rough plan which consists of one line: "Drive the gravel mountain passes of the coastal belt and enjoy the trip and the environment".
Between Durbanville and Papkuilsfontein (Nieuwoudtville) there are three good passes as well as a picturesque route that winds through the koppies for about 40km. Unfortunately one of the passes (Pakhuispas) has been tarred. This route took me to Papkuilsfontein where I stayed for one night in my home made one man roof top tent. I discovered that it is a summer tent, not a spring tent.
Friday's destination was Gifberg Farm, via Botterkloofpas (impressive) and Gifbergpas (very impressive). Along the way I passed the memorial that was erected on the spot where the young Faffa de Milander died in 2009. Gifbergpas is very steep and some tar sections had to be added to assist vehicles when it is wet. The 4x4 route from the reception down to the river is very rough towards the end and I would not recommend it for any vehicle without sufficient ground clearance and a low range. Even then some guidance to the driver as well as road building may be necessary. I paid the price for being too casual. The night next to the Doringivier was special.
Saturday morning it was back to the N7, after battling the loose sand at the river bank with tyre pressures that were too high. Again over the Pakhuispas, and down Hoek-se-Berg (se pas). The scenery form the top of the pass is awesome. There are some pictures below showing the Wupperthalpas and the Old Postal Route.
Enjo Farm in the Biedouwvallei belongs to a young German couple who immigrated 6 years ago. This is awesome territory and I will go back. On Sunday I drove down the valley to the spot where the road crosses the Doring River in summer. From April to November the level of the river is too high to cross and that forced me into a 100km detour the next day, which was yesterday. The detour took me back up Hoek-se-Berg, crossing the Doring River (over a bridge) before ascending the Botterkloofpas  and thereafter taking the Soutpanpad towards the Tanqua Karoo. It was my third time up the Gannagapas and it still rates among the best and most impressive passes that I have travelled. Not only because of the pass itself but also because of the view fro m the top.
And here I am in Sutherland at Jurg se campsite until Thursday. Tonight I meet with the local radio amateurs at the hotel.

Gou bietjie admin.Tot dusver het alles baie voorspoedig gegaan en my rowwe ekspedisieplan "om die bergpasse van die kusstreek te ry en die omgewing te geniet" werk nog.  
Tussen Durbanville en Papkuilsfontein is daar drie goeie passe en 'n mooi roete wat vir  40 km tussen die koppies deur kronkel. Ongelukkig is Pakhuispas nou geteer. Die roete het my na Papkuilsfontein geneem waar ek vir een nag gebly het in my tuisgemaakte eenmandaktent. Die tent blyk eerder 'n somertent as 'n lentetent te wees.
Vrydag se bestemming was Gifbergplaas via Botterkloof (indrukwekkend) en Gifbergpas (baie indrukwekkend). Oppad is ek verby die gedenksteen ter herinnering aan die jong Faffa de Milander wat in 2009 daar oorlede is. Gifbergpas is baie steil met stukke teer om te help as dit nat is. Die 4x4 roete wat van die ontvangs na die Doringrivier loop is aan die einde baie rof. Ek sal dit nie aanbeveel vir voertuie sonder goeie vryhoogte en "low range" nie. Self dan is aanwysings aan die bestuurder en padbou soms nodig. Passassiers moet maar vooraf 'n pilletjie drink. Ek het nie goed opgelet nie en die prys betaal. Die nag langs die Doringrivier is spesiaal.
Saterdagoggend terug na die N7 na bietjie grawe in die sand langs die rivier. Ek was te lui om my bande ver genoeg af te blaas, met voorspelbare gevolge. Toe weer oor die Pakhuispas en Hoek-se-Berg na die Biedouwvallei. Die uitsig bo van die pas is awesome. Hieronder is fotos wat die Wupperthalpas en die Ou Posroete wys.
Enjofarm in die Biedouwvallei behoort aan 'n jong Duitse paar wat 6 jaar gelede geimmigreer het. Die vallei is iets besonders en ek sal graag terugkom.  Sondag het ek met die vallei afgery en gaan kyk waar die pad die Doringrivier in die somer kruis. Die watervlak was ver te hoog en ek moes die volgende dag 'n 100km detour doen. Die detour het my terug oor Hoek-se-Berg geneem, oor die Doringrivier (met 'n brug), oor die Botterkloofpas en later met die Soutpanpad na die Tanqukaroo.
Dit was die derde keer wat ek die Gannagapas uitgery het en dit bly een van die indrukwekkendste passe wat ek nog gedoen het. Nie net is die pas self indrukwekkend nie maar ook die uitsig van bo oor die die Tanquakaroo.
En hier is ek in Sutherland by Jurg se kampplek tot Donderdag. Vanaand ontmoet ek die plaaslike radioamateurs by die hotel.
groete.

Wupperthalpas - van Biedouwvallei

Die ou posroete tussen Biedouwvallei en Tankwa

Life is tough for a lone ranger

Enjofarm se kampplek

As mens hard werk moet jy goed eet 

Te hoog - selfs vir 'n Defender

'n Dubbeldekkerbus op 'n plaas in die Tanquakaroo ???

Gannagapas

Goeie kampplek in Sutherland

I will update properly when I have both time and signal. Last night slept under the stars on the bank of the Doringrivier without anyone within 10 kilometer over a very rough mountain route. The previous night was at Papkuilsfontein where I was given an excellent graphic topographic map of the Western and Southern Cape. Tonight I will be at Enjo Farm in the Biedouw Valley.

Ek sal behoorlik opdateer as ek gelyktydig 'n sein en tyd het. Verlede nag onder die sterre geslaap langs die Doringrivier, ver van mense. Dit was 'n rowwe trip om dat daar te kom.  Die vorige nag was ek by Papkuilsfontein naby Niewoudtville. Daar het ek 'n baie goeie grafiese topografiese kaart van die Wes en Suid Kaap by 'n ander kamper gekry. Vanaand slaap ek in die Biedopuwvallei.

'n Paar fotos

Two more photos

Spoegrivierpas

Studerpas - wes van Garies

Die reenerige weer vandag en more vertraag bietjie die hervatting van die ekspedisie. Die ekspedisieleier hou nie van 'n nat kamp nie. Hopelik kom ek more weg. Die idee is om die grondpadroete wes van die N7 tussen Piekenierskloof en Clanwilliam te neem, die N7 by Clanwilliam oor te steek, Pakhuispas oor en net na die Doringrivier af te draai Nieuwoudtville toe en daar iewers te slaap.  Daarna Gifberg se rigting en dan na die Biedouwvallei. Vandaar Middelpos en Sutherland se rigting en hoop om Maandagaand by Sutherland te slaap.
ZS100MPX behoort Donderdagaand tussen 18h30 en 19h00 weer op 7095 op die lug te wees.

The rainy weather is delaying the next phase of the expedition a bit. The expedition leader does not like a wet tent. Hopefully tomorrow will see me taking the gravel route west of the N7 between Piekenierskloof and Clanwilliam, crossing the N7 at Clanwilliam, over the Pakhuispas, turning towards Nieuwoudtville just after the Doringrivier and camping in N'ville area. Thereafter Gifberg area and then Biedouwvallei, Middelpos and Sutherland, hoepfully camping in Sutherland on  Monday night.
ZS100MPX should be on the air again from Thursday night between 18h30 and 19h00 on 7095.

Worked on equipment, etc. today. And of course it was the XYL's birthday. The equipment is sorted out, and the birthday was celebrated at the Vaatjie und Stube in Port Owen. Four crayfish tails and calamari for R135. Tomorrow Durbanville, with a final \R19.95 birthday breakfast en route in Malmesbury. Wednesday night will be somewhere close to Van Rhynsdorp in my home design one man roof top tent.

Vandag het ek die toerusting ens. gefix.  En dit was die XYL's se verjaardag. Die toerusting is nou ok, en die verjaardag is gevier by die Vaatjie und Stube in Port Owen.  Vier kreefsterte en calamari vir R135. More terug na Durbanville, met 'n laaste R19.95 verjaardagbrekfis in Malmesbury. Woensdagnag iewers naby Van Rhynsdorp in my agterplaasontwerpte een man daktent.

Ons het gistermiddag in Port Owen aangekom om bietjie te konsolideer voor die volgende fase. 'n Paar reparasies en verbeterings aan toerusting was nodig. More vier ons die XYL se verjaardag, Dinsdag Durbanville toe en Woensdag vat ek weer die pad met Fase 1 (b).
Vandag was'n baie mooi lentedag aan die Weskus. Anglevis gebak.

Yesterday afternoon we arrived at Port Owen for a few days of consolidation and tuning of equipment. Tomorrow we celebrate the XYL's birthday. Tuesday to Durbanville and on Wednesday I will hit the road again with Phase 1 (b).
An excellent spring day at the West Coast today. We did Angle fish in the pan.

Nog fotos:

Road from Kleinsee to Springbok - Buffelsrivier on the right

No name pass between Spoegrivier and N7

25 kilometer long Langkloof pass west of Garies

Passengers are useful - especially where there is one gate per kilometer

Helskloof pass in Richtersveld

Yesterday we drove two magnificent and well known Namaqualand passes. Wildeperdehoek and Klipmesselpad. That is after a wet night in Springbok. We camped at Skilpad jusrt next to the National Park for another stormy and wet night. Our company on the stoep of the ablutions (where we cooked) was a German teacher from Pretoria who was travelling on her own.
Today we drove five lovely and virtually unknown passes. Grootrivier, Killian, Unknown, Langkloof and Studer.  I will post pictures later.

Ek het nie nou krag om te vertaal nie. Afrikaans volg later.

Suid van Vioolsdrift

A few more photos. We came to Springbok via Kleinzee and the Spektakel Pass.

Quiver tree

15 kilometer "no name"pass west of Eksteensfontein

Klipstapels in Klein Helskloofpas

Stunning Halfmens in the koppies at Umdaus

Windmill taking a gap year

Arrived in Port Nolloth this morning and staying in the Country Club & Lodge. Not cheap-cheap but after 7 free bush camps, its ok.  Will probably shower 3 times before we leave tomorrow.
After Sendelingsdrift we drove the Helskloof Pass in the Park en route to Richtersberg. Spent 3 nights there with Vreulinks and then another bush camp south of Vioolsdrift. On our way to Vioolsdrift first the Helskloof Pass and  the pass west of Eksteensfontein again, before the Klein Helskloof Pass with its eerie rock 'statuettes'. Unfortunately the petroglyphs next to the road in the pass have been vandalised almost out of existence.
The three nights at Umdaus (actually Xhumdaus) with the Venters have also been very special. The diversity in succulent species is incredible. Although I had seen Halfmense (Pachypodium namaquanum) a few times before, at Umdaus there are more of them to be seen in a morning than 99.9999% of the population would see in a 100 life times.

As far as the radio side is concerned, 40m seems to work ok up to about 19h00. I find the Klaus Mast with vertical the easiest to put up. At Umdaus the wind picked up every afternoon late and then I had to switch to whip plus long wire (inverted L) which also worked perfect. So far I am getting consistent 59 signal reports.

The southern Richtersveld around Umdaus and Kosies is magnificent. A second expedition is already taking shape in my head (half-joking). It seems as if the XYL is still enjoying the trip. Tomorrow we will tackle the Spektakel Pass and aim for Springbok.  Will write about the menu tomorrow or so. Below are some pics.

Ons het vanoggend in Port Nolloth aangekom en slaap in die Country Club & Lodge. Nie cheap-cheap nie maar na 7 gratis boskampe is dit seker ok. Ons sal die stort deeglik gebruik voor ons vertrek.
Na Sendelingsdrift het ons via die Helskloofpas na Richtersberg gery en daar 3 ontspanne dae met Vreulinks spandeer.   Daarna 'n boskamp suid van Vioolsdrift.  Oppad na Vioolsdrift is ons weer oor die Helskoofpas, die lang pas wes van Eksteensfontein en die Klein Helskloofpas met sy klipstapels. Die rotsgravures langs die pad in die pas is ongelukkig erg gevandaliseer.
Die drie nagte byUmdaus (eintlik Xhumdaus) saam met die Venters was spesiaal. Daar is 'n ongelooflike verskeidenheid sukkulente. Ek het tevore al heelwat Halfmense (Pachypodium namaquanum) gesien maar by Umdaus sien mens in een oggend meer van hulle as wat 99.9999% van die bevolking in 100 leeftye sal sien.
Aan die radiokant gaan dit goed. 40m is ok tot omtrent19h00. Die Klaus Mas met 'n vertikale draad is die maklikste om op te rig. By Umdaus word die wind laatmiddag sterk en dan het ek eerder die whip met 'n langdraad gebruik (omgekeerde L). Dit alles werk goed en ek kry konstante 59 seinverslae.
Die suidelike Richtersveld naby Umdaus en Kosies is 'n belewenis. 'n Volgende ekspedisie begin al lyf kry in my kop. Dit lyk of die XYL dit ook nog geniet. More ry ons die Spektakelpas en mik vir Springbok. Ek skryf later oor ons menus. Hieronder 'n paar fotos.